Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Thursday, May 2, 2024

Savannah: Ever Changing, But Still The Same If You Know Where To Look


May 2 is a significant date in Savannah's modern history. On that day in 1981 Jim Williams shot and killed Danny Hansford. It marked a violent end to a tragic love story and the catalyst for an enormously successful non-fiction novel and the economic and social transformation of a city. In 1977 I moved to a new job near Savannah and was soon seduced by the city's charm and opportunities. I bought a townhouse in the historic district and in a matter of weeks realized the city was a most unusual urban tapestry inhabited by a full range of entertaining and eccentric characters. There could have been a book about Savannah in my future but I was too busy adjusting to new work, stumbling through a failing relationship with the woman who came with me, and serving as general contractor restoring my "livable" townhouse.

John Berendt, the man who would eventually write that book, first visited the city around 1981 long after I escaped to the beach. He returned two or three times gathering even more fascinating and compelling characteristics about the city and its people. Three years later he moved to Savannah in search of broadening his writing career. The project that emerged was a travelogue built around the Williams-Hansford story. The result was unlike any proposal the publishing industry had ever seen.




The book was a sensation, a best seller with a broad impact. Savannah's tourism exploded, also enhanced by the highly successful Savannah College of Art and Design and its historic preservation initiative. For comparison, there were 5 million tourists who spent $600 million in 1993. The numbers jumped to 12.5 million and $2.2 billion in 2013. A decade later nearly 20 million tourists visited the city. They spent $5 billion and made the city a leading destination for international tourism.

Yes, Savannah experienced change quickly. There were more restaurants to enjoy. The night life flourished. Tour options abounded, from ghost, to pirate, to transsexual. The pace changed: faster, broader, deeper, never ending, and more expensive. The downtown historic district became a hot real estate market on an international scale. It also became a fishbowl brimming with tourists. Soon the preservation pioneers from the '70s and '80s paid $6,000, $8,000, then $10,000 or more in city/county taxes to live in the homes they had lovingly restored. Many of them left. Had I stayed, I too would have been displaced.

Today, the people go about their daily lives shadowed by those magnificent, moss draped live oaks. The wonderfully restored facades provide a pleasing backdrop. The ships glide in and out of port with the flood and ebb of the tides. And Bonaventure's ancient gate welcomes the living and the dead into what I believe is by far the nation's, perhaps one of the world's, most beautiful cemetery. So much has changed in Savannah, but in the quiet hours, in the intimate gardens, and in the music of the squares as well as that of a piano a few door away, you can still find the essence of the old Southern city I knew over forty years ago. One thing you can't find is my book. You'll have to look to another author for the story.


John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was published in 1994. It was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in non-fiction in 1995. More than 3 million copies have been sold. The book remains the longest running title - 216 weeks - on the New York Times Best Seller list. Trust me. It's a good read.




Sources


Photos and Illustrations:
front cover art, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Random House, New York, 1994, fair use


Text:
Wikipedia.org
interview, Booknotes, interview with Brian Lamb, C-SPAN, August, 12, 1997

Tuesday, May 2, 2023

In 1994 One Book Changed The Life Of A City



May 2 is a significant date in Savannah's modern history. On that day in 1981 Jim Williams shot and killed Danny Hansford. It marked a violent end to a tragic love story and the catalyst for an enormously successful non-fiction novel and the economic and social transformation of a city. In 1977 I moved to a new job near Savannah and was soon seduced by the city's charm and opportunities. I bought a townhouse in the historic district and in a matter of weeks realized the city was a most unusual urban tapestry inhabited by a full range of entertaining and eccentric characters. There could have been a book about Savannah in my future but I was too busy adjusting to work, stumbling through a relationship with the woman who came with me, and serving as general contractor restoring my "livable" townhouse.

John Berendt, the man who would eventually write that book first visited the city around 1981 long after I escaped to the beach. He returned two or three times gathering even more fascinating and compelling characteristics about the city and its people. Three years later he moved to Savannah in search of broadening his writing career. The project that emerged was a travelogue built around the Williams-Hansford story. The result was unlike any proposal the publishing industry had ever seen.




The book was a sensation, a best seller with a broad impact. Savannah's tourism exploded, also enhanced by the highly successful Savannah College of Art and Design and its historic preservation initiative. For comparison, there were 5 million tourists who spent $600 million in 1993. The numbers jumped to 12.5 million and $2.2 billion in 2013. Yes, Savannah experienced change quickly. There were more restaurants to enjoy. The night life flourished. Tour options abounded, from ghost, to pirate, to transsexual. The pace changed: faster, broader, deeper, never ending, and more expensive. The downtown historic district became a hot real estate market on an international scale. It also became a fishbowl brimming with tourists. Soon the preservation pioneers from the '70s and '80s paid $6,000, $8,000, then $10,000 or more in city/county taxes to live in the homes they had lovingly restored. Many of them left. Had I stayed, I too would have been displaced. 

Today, the people go about their daily lives shadowed by those magnificent, moss draped live oaks. The wonderfully restored facades provide a pleasing backdrop. The ships glide in and out of port with the flood and ebb of the tides. And Bonaventure's ancient gate welcomes the living and the dead into what I believe is by far the nation's most beautiful cemetery. So much has changed in Savannah, but in the quiet hours, in the intimate gardens, and in the music of the squares as well as that of a piano a few door away, you can find the city I knew over forty years ago. One thing you can't find is my book. You'll have to look to another author for the story.


John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was published in 1994. It was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in non-fiction in 1995. More than 3 million copies have been sold. The book remains the longest running title - 216 weeks - on the New York Times Best Seller list. Trust me. It's a good read.




Sources


Photos and Illustrations:
front cover art, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Random House, New York, 1994, fair use


Text:
Wikipedia.org
interview, Booknotes, interview with Brian Lamb, C-SPAN, August, 12, 1997


Friday, February 1, 2013

Time To Escape The Cold

Having fun on Florida's fine beaches

Tonight, temps in the Atlanta suburbs will dip into the low 20s. It's the coldest yet this winter, and a reminder of those wonderful and regular getaways to tropical Florida when OTR could throw everything he owned into a Camaro. The opportunities to enjoy nature and recreation were just about endless.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Summer Vacation

Yes friends, we're moving into the middle of vacation season. And just to remind you of what's happened or whet your appetite for that upcoming trip, this is what it's all about...


...the exciting destinations...


















...the new friends along the way...














...the luxury accommodations...
















...the fine dining...




















...and the modern transportation and shopping opportunities....















Seriously, we at OTR Haus do hope your summer is turning out to be all you hoped for. We just concluded a whirlwind week with a visit from our son and his girl friend, dinners with friends, and a big holiday bash. More frequent blogging will now resume.

Notes on the 1950s postcards:

Akron, Ohio, National Tower Building and Derby Downs,

Mt. Cranmore Skimobile, North Conway, New Hampshire,

El Cortez Motel, Williamsport, Maryland,

Southern Kitchen, New Market, Virginia,

Monroeville Shopping Center, Monroeville, Pennsylvania.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Yellowstone Territory

The Voyage of Discovery spent two days exploring Yellowstone National Park, a glorious piece of volcanism and geomorphology. A fire in the south central section of the park thwarted our plans for an entrance at West Yellowstone, a circuit tour, easy exit at the north gate, and an early overnight in Gardner. Yes, we did enter at the west gate and overnight in Gardner, but only after a 175 mile detour that required retracing most of our route into the park. We arrived at our lodge well beyond sunset and near exhaustion. The fine accommodations revived us and we were on our way back into the park for an exploration of Yellowstone Canyon and an exit at the east gate. The smoke cloud from the West Thumb fire provided us with spectacular light and color and offered many opportunities for dramatic photography along the route. Our drive into Cody, Wyoming was through equally stunning landscapes under the protection of the U.S. Forest Service. At Cody, we dined at the Irma Hotel, built by Buffalo Bill Cody in 1902. Prime rib, oysters Rockefeller, baked cod, and superb vegetables made a perfect ending to a perfect day.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Heartland History

Tonight, I'm posting from the banks of the Missouri River near Nebraska City, Nebraska. It's been twenty years since I traveled much of this route. The cities are much larger today, surrounded by concentric beltways that a generation ago were little more than wishful thinking on the part of city boosters. The most significant change I've noted is the proliferation of brown signs, indicators of recreational or other leisure activities. It seems that history has become a major tourist attraction across much of the heartland. From hamlets to county seats to state capitals, everyone seems to have "hung out a shingle" to capture attention and dollars. In all, I'd say this a great development for the study and enjoyment of popular history. On the other hand, having hundreds of choices requires discretion and preparation; otherwise, a trip could become overwhelming in short order.

More changes are evident along the Midwest's blue highways and interstates, particularly in rural areas and small towns. In the countryside, abandoned businesses and farms reflect the changing patterns of work and life in the United States. If anything, the abandonment appears to have accelerated. The larger towns - 10,000 persons or more - seem to have escaped the decline entirely, actually thriving in spite of the national recession.

Some thing never change. That wonderful sky dome still provides the colorful sunrises and sunsets. Mid morning brings on a refreshing wind that lasts into dark. Late summer wildflowers paint the prairie and every hawk finds a high perch.

To be continued.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

More Horizons

Both of my sons are traveling this week. One of them is nearing the end of a five-week trek across the the eastern Mediterranean from Turkey, through Greece, and into Egypt. This week, he's "vacationing" in Dahab, a former Bedouin fishing village on the Red Sea. His older brother leaves this evening for his second trip into the Himalayas, this time to Afghanistan. The journey will be long for him both in time and deep history, as he will be there several months among those whose ancestors composed the Rigveda almost 4000 years ago. It will be a professional and intellectual adventure for him.

I expect my sons will return to the United States as changed individuals, both in terms of maturity as citizens of the world and their appreciation for the bountiful goodness their country affords them.

Today, I am content to explore the world through the experiences of my children, if they choose to tolerate my intrusions. And, while the boys are on the road physically, their sister explores ancient language here at home. For me, it is the best of both worlds, but I look forward to the time when my daughter can explore other lands through the lens of her specialized studies.

There was a time, years ago, when I came so very close to taking an adventure into China, but had my plans changed by another significant event. The thirty years that have passed since then still lead me to the east, but the destination has changed. Should the trip happen, it will be into Nepal, Tibet, and the shadow of Everest.

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