Chernobyl After 38 Years

 

Abandoned room in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone

The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant (Ukraine) reactor explosion and fire occurred on this day in 1986. The event remains the worst accident of its kind. A precise number of casualties will never be known beyond the 41 who died during and in the few months following the event.

On the edge of the plant, a city died. Its 50,000 people were evacuated in two days leaving behind a photograph of interrupted lives. In the 38 years since the reactor meltdown and fire the decaying remains of Pripyat have become a prime destination for those seeking the disturbing presence of abandoned and decaying places.

The background radiation in Pripyat remains about three times above normal with hot spots exceeding fifty times normal. The situation has not prevented the growth of a robust tourist industry focused on the event and its aftermath. Although the recent Russian invasion of Ukraine has brought tourism to a halt this site is a good indicator of the response to curiosity surrounding the area. In time I have no doubt that tourists will return to experience what has become one of the strangest places on the planet.

Chernobyl and Pripyat: Disaster And Decay

The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant (Ukraine) reactor explosion and fire occurred on this day in 1986. The event remains the worst accident of its kind. A precise number of casualties will never be known beyond the 41 who died during and in the few months following the event. 

On the edge of the plant, a city died. Its 50,000 people were evacuated in two days leaving behind a photograph of interrupted lives. In the 37 years since the reactor meltdown and fire the decaying remains of Pripyat have become a prime destination for those seeking the disturbing presence of abandoned and decaying places.

The background radiation in Pripyat remains about three times above normal with hot spots exceeding fifty times normal. The situation has not prevented the growth of a robust tourist industry focused on the event and its aftermath. Although the recent Russian invasion of Ukraine has brought tourism to a halt this site is a good indicator of the response to curiosity surrounding the area. In time I have no doubt that tourists will return to experience what has become one of the strangest places on the planet.

Finding No Sorrow

The world is filled with magic places. The right nexus of site, scene, scale, and subject will leave deep and lasting impressions. Fifty years ago I discovered such a place sitting hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean between Carmel and Big Sur. Its name, Nepenthe, was taken from Vergil's Aeneid, and interpreted as meaning "no sorrow." In the book it is a fictional pain-relieving elixir. On the Sur coast it is a stunning oasis of hospitality and breathtaking landscape. Nepenthe is the story of what happens when a family escapes from everyday life only to discover that their home site is so beautiful it demands to be shared with others. And so on April 24, 1949, Nepenthe opened to the public as a restaurant. Today, the original restaurant and terraces -designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright - have been joined by a cafe and The Phoenix Shop, a unique world-themed store. Every turn there is a discovery of human and natural landscapes both real and imagined.

Over the decades I returned to this special place at every opportunity. Sadly, it hasn't been nearly enough times, but I think there could never be enough experiences there to be sated. The solace comes in knowing that once you visit, you never really leave the magic. So "Happy 74th Birthday" to Nepenthe and best wishes to the descendants of founders, Bill and Lolly Fassett, who run the place and ensure that the hospitality and magic keep flowing.

Readers can learn more about that magic here. Be sure to click on the "Stories & Folktales" link to start. When the opportunity arises I hope you'll visit to experience "no sorrow" for yourself. The food is moderately expensive, rich but healthy, generous, and quite good for what has become an iconic tourist stop on Highway 1. Try the Ambrosia Burger, a choice that has become the most popular dish. The breathtaking visual experience and ambiance are free. And priceless.

The cover photo is from a recent book written by Romney Steele, granddaughter of the founders. It's filled with the Nepenthe story and recipes for those times when you can't be on the terrace. If you're interested but not likely to be traveling there anytime soon, I'm sure you can order copies from the Phoenix Shop website.





Sources


Photos and Illustrations:
photo of view north from Highway 1 near Nepenthe entrance is from
family archives

Chernobyl After 36 Years

 

The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant (Ukraine) reactor explosion and fire occurred on this day in 1986. The event remains the worst accident of its kind. A precise number of casualties will never be known beyond the 41 who died during and in the few months following the event. On the edge of the plant, a city died. Its 50,000 people were evacuated in two days leaving behind a photograph of interrupted lives. In the 36 years since the reactor meltdown and fire the decaying remains of Pripyat have become a prime destination for those seeking the disturbing presence of abandoned and decaying places.

The background radiation in Pripyat remains about three times above normal with hot spots exceeding fifty times normal. The situation has not prevented the growth of a robust tourist industry focused on the event and its aftermath. Although the recent Russian invasion of Ukraine has brought tourism to a halt this site is a good indicator of the response to curiosity surrounding  the area. In time I have no doubt that tourists will return to experience what has become one of the strangest places on the planet. 

On The Road To No Sorrow

 

The world is filled with magic places. The right nexus of site, scene, scale, and subject will leave deep and lasting impressions. Fifty years ago I discovered such a crossroad sitting hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean between Carmel and Big Sur. The place is Nepenthe. Its name derives from nepenthes pharmakon, a philter (potion) appearing in the Odyssey written by the Greek poet, Homer, around 800 BCE.  The phrase means "medicine that chases away all sorrow." On the Sur coast it is a stunning oasis of hospitality and breathtaking landscape. Nepenthe is the story of what happens when a family escapes from everyday life only to discover that their home site is so beautiful it demands to be shared with others. And so on April 24, 1949, Nepenthe opened to the public as a restaurant. Today, the original restaurant and terraces - designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright - have been joined by a cafe and The Phoenix Shop, a unique world-themed store. Every turn at Nepenthe is a discovery of human and natural landscapes both real and imagined.

Over the decades I returned to this special place at every opportunity. Sadly, I haven't had nearly enough, but I think there could never be enough. The solace comes in knowing that once you visit, you never really leave the magic. So "Happy Birthday" to Nepenthe and the descendants of founders, Bill and Lolly Fassett, who run the place and ensure that the hospitality and magic keep flowing.

Readers can learn more about that magic here. Be sure to click on the "Stories & Folktales" link to start. When the opportunity arises I hope you'll visit to experience "no sorrow" for yourself. The food is moderately expensive, rich but healthy, generous, and quite good for what has become an iconic tourist stop on Highway 1. Try the Ambrosia Burger, a choice that has become the most popular dish. The Nepenthe experience itself is free. And priceless.

Take a trip there now by visiting their livecam. You can enjoy a Mannheim Steamroller composition inspired by the view as you enjoy it. 

The cover photo is from a recent book about Nepenthe written by Romney Steele, granddaughter of the founders. It's filled with the Nepenthe story and recipes for those times when you can't be on the terrace. If you're interested but not likely to be traveling there anytime soon, I'm sure you can order copies from the Phoenix Shop website.

Sources

Text:

wikidoc.org

Photos and Illustrations:
photo of view north from Highway 1 near Nepenthe entrance is from
family archives

Finding Nepenthe

 

The world is filled with magic places. The right nexus of site, scene, scale, and subject will leave deep and lasting impressions. Fifty years ago I discovered such a place sitting hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean between Carmel and Big Sur. Its name, Nepenthe, was taken  from Vergil's Aeneid, and interpreted as meaning "no sorrow." In the book it is a fictional pain-relieving elixir. On the Sur coast it is a stunning oasis of hospitality and breathtaking landscape. Nepenthe is the story of what happens when a family escapes from everyday life only to discover that their home site is so beautiful it demands to be shared with others. And so on April 24, 1949, Nepenthe opened to the public as a restaurant. Today, the original restaurant and terraces -designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright - have been joined by a cafe and The Phoenix Shop, a unique world-themed store. Every turn at Nepenthe is a discovery of human and natural landscapes both real and imagined.

Over the decades I returned to this special place at every opportunity. Sadly, it hasn't been nearly enough times, but I think there could never be enough experiences there to be sated. The solace comes in knowing that once you visit, you never really leave the magic. So "Happy Birthday" to Nepenthe and the descendants of founders, Bill and Lolly Fassett, who run the place and ensure that the hospitality and magic keep flowing.

Readers can learn more about that magic here. Be sure to click on the "Stories & Folktales" link to start. When the opportunity arises I hope you'll visit to experience "no sorrow" for yourself. The food is moderately expensive, rich but healthy, generous, and quite good for what has become an iconic tourist stop on Highway 1. Try the Ambrosia Burger, a choice that has become Nepenthe's most popular dish. The Nepenthe experience itself is free. And priceless.

The  cover photo is from a recent book about Nepenthe written by Romney Steele, granddaughter of the founders. It's filled with the Nepenthe story and recipes for those times when you can't be on the terrace. If you're interested but not likely to be traveling there anytime soon, I'm sure you can order copies from the Phoenix Shop website.

Sources

Photos and Illustrations:

photo of view north from Highway 1 near Nepenthe entrance is from  

family archives

The Chernobyl Nuclear Disaster On The Eve Of Its Third Decade

The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant (Ukraine) reactor explosion and fire occurred on this day in 1986. The event remains the worst accident of its kind. A precise number of casualties will never be known beyond the 41 who died during and in the few months following the event. On the edge of the plant, the city of Pripyat died. Its 50,000 people were evacuated in two days leaving behind a photograph of interrupted lives. In the 29 years since it has become a prime destination for those seeking the disturbing presence of abandoned and decaying places.

The background radiation in Pripyat remains about three times above normal with hot spots exceeding fifty times normal. Should you choose to visit the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone and the city of Pripyat, here are the tourist rules. 

Nepenthe: The Experience Of No Sorrow

The world is filled with magic places. The right nexus of site, scene, scale, and subject will leave deep and lasting impressions. Forty years ago OTR discovered such a place sitting hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean between Carmel and Big Sur. Its name was Nepenthe--meaning "no sorrow" in Greek--and today marks its 62nd birthday. Nepenthe is the story of what happens when a family discovers their home site is so beautiful it demands to be shared with others. Today, the original restaurant and terraces--designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright--have been joined by a cafe with a breathtaking view of the Sur coast and The Phoenix Shop, a unique world-themed store guaranteed to grab attention. Every turn you take at Nepenthe is a discovery of human and natural landscapes both real and imagined.

OTR has returned to this special place at every opportunity over these last forty years. Sadly, it hasn't been nearly enough times, but OTR thinks there could never be enough experiences there to be sated. The solace comes in knowing that once you visit, you never really leave the magic.

So "Happy Birthday" to Nepenthe and the Fassett family descendants who run the place and ensure that the hospitality and magic keep flowing.

Readers can learn more about that magic here. Be sure to click on the "Stories & Folktales" link to start. OTR thinks you'll want to visit soon to see "no sorrow" for yourself. The food is expensive, rich, generous, and quite good for what has become a iconic tourist stop on Highway 1. OTR suggests the Ambrosia Burger as a filling, moderately priced meal. The Nepenthe experience itself is free. And priceless.

The illustration is the cover of a new book about Nepenthe by Romney Steele, granddaughter of the founders, Bill and Lolly Fassett. Autographed copies are available from the Phoenix Shop website.

Heartland History

Tonight, I'm posting from the banks of the Missouri River near Nebraska City, Nebraska. It's been twenty years since I traveled much of this route. The cities are much larger today, surrounded by concentric beltways that a generation ago were little more than wishful thinking on the part of city boosters. The most significant change I've noted is the proliferation of brown signs, indicators of recreational or other leisure activities. It seems that history has become a major tourist attraction across much of the heartland. From hamlets to county seats to state capitals, everyone seems to have "hung out a shingle" to capture attention and dollars. In all, I'd say this a great development for the study and enjoyment of popular history. On the other hand, having hundreds of choices requires discretion and preparation; otherwise, a trip could become overwhelming in short order.

More changes are evident along the Midwest's blue highways and interstates, particularly in rural areas and small towns. In the countryside, abandoned businesses and farms reflect the changing patterns of work and life in the United States. If anything, the abandonment appears to have accelerated. The larger towns - 10,000 persons or more - seem to have escaped the decline entirely, actually thriving in spite of the national recession.

Some thing never change. That wonderful sky dome still provides the colorful sunrises and sunsets. Mid morning brings on a refreshing wind that lasts into dark. Late summer wildflowers paint the prairie and every hawk finds a high perch.

To be continued.