The world is filled with magic places. The right nexus of site, scene, scale, and subject will leave deep and lasting impressions. Fifty years ago I discovered such a place sitting hundreds of feet above the Pacific Ocean between Carmel and Big Sur. Its name, Nepenthe, was taken from Vergil's Aeneid, and interpreted as meaning "no sorrow." In the book it is a fictional pain-relieving elixir. On the Sur coast it is a stunning oasis of hospitality and breathtaking landscape. Nepenthe is the story of what happens when a family escapes from everyday life only to discover that their home site is so beautiful it demands to be shared with others. And so on April 24, 1949, Nepenthe opened to the public as a restaurant. Today, the original restaurant and terraces -designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright - have been joined by a cafe and The Phoenix Shop, a unique world-themed store. Every turn there is a discovery of human and natural landscapes both real and imagined.
Over the decades I returned to this special place at every opportunity. Sadly, it hasn't been nearly enough times, but I think there could never be enough experiences there to be sated. The solace comes in knowing that once you visit, you never really leave the magic. So "Happy 74th Birthday" to Nepenthe and best wishes to the descendants of founders, Bill and Lolly Fassett, who run the place and ensure that the hospitality and magic keep flowing.
Readers can learn more about that magic here. Be sure to click on the "Stories & Folktales" link to start. When the opportunity arises I hope you'll visit to experience "no sorrow" for yourself. The food is moderately expensive, rich but healthy, generous, and quite good for what has become an iconic tourist stop on Highway 1. Try the Ambrosia Burger, a choice that has become the most popular dish. The breathtaking visual experience and ambiance are free. And priceless.
The cover photo is from a recent book written by Romney Steele, granddaughter of the founders. It's filled with the Nepenthe story and recipes for those times when you can't be on the terrace. If you're interested but not likely to be traveling there anytime soon, I'm sure you can order copies from the Phoenix Shop website.
Sources
Photos and Illustrations:
photo of view north from Highway 1 near Nepenthe entrance is from
family archives
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